“Drawing exclusively from The Henry Ford’s collections, Fabric of America: Our Fashions, Textiles, and Technologies explores the deep connections between textiles and our shared history. Through five enduring American values — liberty, practicality, inventiveness, abundance and individualism — this exhibition reveals how fabric shapes who we are as a people and a nation, presented as part of The Henry Ford’s America: 250 Years in the Making commemoration.”
Over 500 artifacts of wearable ingenuity range from high-end couture to flour sack dresses that were so common during the Great Depression and WWII manufacturers offered bags printed in vibrant florals for that express purpose. Music has always been on the leading edge of fashion reflecting a band’s unique personality. New wave band Devo’s absurdist costuming was an anti-Vietnam protest after the Kent State shootings. Emigrating from Jamaica, hip hop founding father DJ Kool Herc adopted American trends to dissuade bullying and launched a vesture for the genre.
Political attire supporting a hopeful candidate has been effective for decades. Abraham Lincoln’s 1860 campaign top hat ‘The Coming Man’ came to be synonymous with the winner of that election. During the 1968 presidential campaign, each candidate had a version of the ‘Mod’ paper dress. Nixon won. Most recently, the bright red MAGA baseball cap instantly declares a specific point of view.
25 masterpieces, originally featured in Jeff Newsom’s 2024 show FROCK at Kaiser Suidan’s Next Step Studio, were destined for the permanent collection at the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation. Spotlighted in this exhibition is the smooth luxury of the little black dress. Cold Shoulder, on the far right, was a discard when Liza Minelli found it in Donna Karan’s closet and wore it to the 1992 Oscars. Karan had no idea Hillary Clinton owned the dress until she wore it to a White House State dinner.
The US’ storied history with cotton—a vastly profitable international industry—failed to recognize or account for the pain and suffering of the slaves who picked, separated and weaved the goods that became ubiquitous in American households.
The humble T-shirt, originally a modification of the one-piece union suit, evolved into a statement piece communicating the wearer’s affiliations, identity, values and interests. It’s been seen on mechanics to the red carpet. Athletes to military. And the iconic ‘50s bad boy greaser, famously portrayed by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause and Henry Winkler as Happy Days’ the Fonz.
It doesn’t take Anna Wintour to remind us that fashion is art we live in. Some of us can afford runway looks. Others design bold style through apparel we create ourselves. All of it is an expression of our passions, tastes and character that grant a sense of belonging with those who share the same.
“I was always inspired by America. I loved East Coast preppiness, the utility of the cowboy’s worn jeans, American folk art, the glamour of Hollywood and the rich heritage of Native American craftsmanship. It’s always been there, right in front of us—on the streets, in the small towns, in the big cities—in the way people live.” –Ralph Lauren
Thank you to Jeff Newsom for the invite to the Fabric of America Cocktail Party. It was a lovely evening giving me the opportunity to view this installation in a considered environment. Not to mention running into several people I haven’t seen in ages! Ciao Bella!
On view through Sept 13 at The Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation 20900 Oakwood Blvd Dearborn
*images are mine
direct quote from museum materials
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Love this! Your photos are great. Devo! Nixon! TShirts! Can't wait to see this.